Bucket list before moving back to America in summer of 2014

After moving to Belgium in August, 2011 for my husband’s work purpose, we have travelled the world quite a bit, especially Europe and little bit of Africa and Asia. My husband’s assignment was for 2 years; so, according to that we were supposed to go back to Portland, Oregon early August of this year. I won’t’ lie, I was excited to go back to my own familiar place, to my old job, to our friends, to a familiar culture, and finally, to Taco Bell and Olive Garden. But another part of me didn’t really want to leave this laid back and always-on-vacation mode of life so quickly. We weren’t done with our travelling yet, I told myself. The idea of leaving a place like Belgium, or Europe as a whole, is now a bit of scary thought for me. We are seriously spoiled having all these great places to visit within few hours of drive or few hours of flight. It’s not like living in West Coast where you have to cross the whole country and then Atlantic to come to this side of the world (and not to mention the high ticket fare).

So, my husband and I were waiting for his supervisor to give us a green signal to extend to another year in Belgium. I like waiting, it gives you some time to think about and plan for the things that you are waiting for…both the positive and negative sides. But I didn’t really like waiting for the question, “to leave or not to leave?” After about two months, few days ago my husband’s boss said, “yes” for one more year…oh YES, one more year of vacation; after that we can gladly thank the lord for giving us this wonderful opportunity and say good-bye to Europe for a long time (but we would definitely like to come back here again when we are old and retired and dine in up-scale restaurants which we can’t do now with toddlers).

While we were waiting for our answer whether we are staying here or not, we made a bucket list of all the places that we want to see before heading back to America. There are lot more places than these below ones but I only added the places that I know we can practically make it with little effort. The list only contains cities/countries from Europe, Africa, and Asia since it’s easier to reach there unlike South America or Australia (we will cover those once we return to Oregon). So here these are:

1) Europe: People ask me jokingly, “aren’t you done with Europe? Are there any places left for you to visit?” I wish I could say, yes to these questions. But unfortunately we are not, not even close.

a) Scotland – Edinburgh

b) Sweden – Stockholm

c) Finland – Helsinki

d) Norway – Fjords of Norway

e) Portugal – Lisbon

f) Spain – Seville, Cordoba, Granada, Malaga, and Gibraltar

g) Albania – Tirana

h) Ukraine – Kiev

i) France – Disney World (for my kids), Etretat, Alsace region (Strasbourg, Colmar, Obernai), and French Alps – Mont Blanc

j) Italy – Trulli, Florence, Tuscan villages, Italian Alps – Dolomite Mountains

k) San Marino

l) Malta – Valetta

m) Cyprus – Larnaca

n) Greece – Crete, Santorini, Mykonos

o) Germany – Dusseldorf, Frankfurt, Dresden, Leipzig

p) Belgium – Mons, Liege, Namur, Charleroi, Bouillon, Dinant, Luxembourg, Hainut, Tournai, Durbuy, Leuven, and Mechelen

q) The Netherlands – Utrecht, The Hague, Eindhoven, and Breda

r) Switzerland – Bern and Interlaken

s) Austria – Innsbruck

t) Croatia – Dubrovnik

u) Bosnia and Herzegovina – Sarajevo

v) Serbia – Belgrade

w) Macedonia – Skopje

x) Montenegro – Podgorica

y) Bulgaria – Sofia

z) Poland – Warsaw, Krakow

aa) Latvia – Riga

bb) Lithuania – Kaunas

cc) Russia – St. Petersburg and Moscow

dd) Iceland – Reykjavik and driving the ring road

2) Africa:

a) South Africa – Johannesburg, Cape Town, Durban, Kruger National Park Safari

b) Ivory Coast – Abidjan

c) Egypt – Alexandria, Luxor, Aswan, Abu Simbel and Sharm-El-Sheikh

3) Asia:

a) China – Great Wall of China

b) Jordan – Amman and Petra

The list is long but the good news is we will be here until August, 2014. My husband, my 2 girls, and I are ready for more annoying plane journeys, waiting at the airports, being in the car for many hours, waking up or going to sleep at odd times to catch flights, dealing with fussy kids (or cranky parents for our daughters), and not to mention writing more posts on our fascinating experiences.

In a land of Moroccan Barberes – Ouarzazate, Morocco

OUARZAZATE, MOROCCO:Ouarzazate is about 200 km south of Marrakech. Although 200 km sounds nothing for day trip but it took us about 4 hours each way on a private taxi. But the hectic journey through the rugged Atlas mountain range was worth every bit of it. If not for this trip, we wouldn’t have seen the true beauty of Morocco’s giant landscapes and its desert. This was a nice way to get out from the city life and visit not only the natural beauty of this country but also the life-style of the local Berberes. We needed some fresh air after being in Djemaa El-Fna, Marrakech for few days and this was just a great escape to the wilderness.

Layers of Atlas Mountains on our way to Ouarzazate, Morocco
Layers of Atlas Mountains on our way to Ouarzazate, Morocco

We paid 1200 Moroccan Dh for the whole arrangement. He was a great driver, being very careful while driving on elevated roads of mountains without rushing or anything. The main problem came when we found out that we’ve asked for an English-speaking guide/driver and we were stuck with a French/Arabic-speaking driver for a whole day of the journey. He was a very charming man but could barely explain what we were seeing. Also, making a day trip with kids where we had to spend total 8 hours in the van was a bit tiresome. My almost-3 year old daughter actually fell sick from being in the car for that long and riding on twisty and zig-zaggy mountainous roads to reach there. Visiting all those place were actually very relaxing and enjoyable but it’s the van-ride that kinda made all of us sick. We were planning to take another day-trip to Ourika Valley but had to cancel it for the sake of the kids and especially after finding out that the same person would take us there L …. So, yeah…other than that I would recommend anyone going to Ouarzazate to get some real taste of the beauty of desert and mountains all in one place.

Roads thru Atlas in Morocco
Roads thru Atlas in Morocco

TIME of TRAVEL: We flew to Marrakech on the first week of January 2013 during my daughter’s winter break. It can be very cold in Marrakech around this time of the year. And Ouarzazate is even colder and windier at times than Marrakech because of its elevation and surrounding mountains.

Road to Ouarzazate...beautiful snow-capped mountains and the valley
Road to Ouarzazate…beautiful snow-capped mountains and the valley

OUR HOTEL: We stayed in a hotel (actually a Riad) called, Riad Dar El-Ihsaan in Marrakech. This is actually not really a hotel, it’s a traditional Moroccan style Bed & Breakfast type inn, usually known as Riad. Our riad was located inside the boundaries of Medina (old town) thru some small alleys and passages and very close to Djemaa El-Fna and other major souks (bazaars). These riads are usually decorated with very traditional Moroccan style features, like cozy inner-courtyards surrounded by the rooms, bright colored living spaces with old-style furniture and linens; some riads may have swimming pools and other cool features. Every day after coming back to our riad, I used to order some Moroccan mint tea, sit down in the courtyard sofas, and enjoy the surrounding which was warmly decorated with some Moroccan lamps, candle-holders, some plants, and a small fountain. It’s a family run riad and one of the staff’s mom used to prepare breakfast for us. We had cheese, olives, breads (sometimes home-made crepes or Indian style parathas), boiled eggs, coffee, and milk for the kids. The breakfast and Wi-Fi were free. Our room was very clean and all the staffs were very helpful and friendly. Every night they used to burn incense in the courtyard and I could get that sweet smell from our room…I felt like I am sleeping in a Sultan’s palace. But one thing specifically about our room was that we had NO DOORS for our bathroom…yes, it sounds weird but I guess that was a little part of the whole experience in Marrakech. Using the toilette and taking shower in a bathroom without doors is a funny feeling, especially when you have curious kids around you. I never got used to that during our stay there, so I ended up using the bathroom near the reception J

EATING and SHOPPING: We stopped at a road-side restaurant near Ait Ben Haddou before entering the Kasbah. It’s a traditional style Moroccan restaurant, can’t really remember the name, with a gorgeous view of Ait Ben Haddou, nearby valley and mountains from its terrace. I wasn’t really up for any meat dishes after being in the van for 4 hours going thru the twisty highways of Atlas Mountains, so decided to go with simple rice, with some veges, and fried egg.

My simple lunch near Ait Ben Haddou in Morocco
My simple lunch near Ait Ben Haddou in Morocco

While walking towards Ait Ben Haddou, we saw some shops carrying local hand-crafts, like rugs, babouche (Moroccan slippers), tagines (their traditional cooking clay pots), and other souvenirs made by the native Berbere people. The price may be a bit cheaper than the ones in Marrakech, but the options and qualities here were limited. Other than these, we saw many other Berbere shops on the side of the highways while driving towards Ouarzazate. Moroccan argon oil is another famous (and very expensive) souvenir that tourists buy from here. We stopped at a road-side service inn for a small break on our way to Ouarzazate. It had a restaurant in one side and an argon cosmetic factory/showroom right beside it. We were lucky to get glimpses of the ladies breaking and processing the argon nuts to get cooking oil and for making cosmetics.

A lady breaking argan nuts in a road-side cosmetics store, on our way to Ouarzazate
A lady breaking argon nuts in a road-side cosmetics store, on our way to Ouarzazate

PLACES WE’VE VISITED: We visited only few spots in Ouarzazate in about 4/5 hours. It’s not just these places that amazed us, it were the snow-capped Atlas Mountains in the distance, the rugged desert during the sunset, beautiful valleys with old Kasbah every now and then, and up & down terrain of hilly landscapes that made this trip an enjoyable day-trip.

The valley from up above
The valley from up above

1) AIT BEN HADDOU: This was our 1st destination after about 4 hours of drive from Marrakech to Ouarzazate. This is a Kasbah in a desert valley where 15 native Berbere families still live. As far as I understand, Kasbah is something that rich Berbere (native Moroccans) families made to live together under one roof. They look like they are risen from the desert and are blended with the mountains for similar colors and textures. We didn’t go inside the Kasbah but standing on the scenic valley with a small stream running thru it and surrounding small hills were good enough to entertain our eyes and make good memories in our heart.

Ait Ben Haddou, a Berbere Kasbah near Ouarzazate in Morocco
Ait Ben Haddou, a Berbere Kasbah near Ouarzazate in Morocco

As soon as we arrived at Ait Ben Haddou, one young gentleman (probably a local Berbere) approached us to guide us through the Kasbah for 50 Dh (later he came down to 30 Dh) but we preferred to take time and do it ourselves instead. There are 2 ways to reach the mountain top overlooking the Kasbah: 1) thru the community, where you can actually see the life-style of Berberes, it costs 10 Dh per person to enter and 2) thru another entrance which requires more walking but is free. It takes you around the Kasbah to the top.

Walking back to our taxi from Ait Ben Haddou, going thru some Berbere shops. You can see their hand-made rugs hanging in one of the stores
Walking back to our taxi from Ait Ben Haddou, going thru some Berbere shops.
You can see their hand-made rugs hanging in one of the stores

2) OURZAZATE KASBAH or KASBAH de TAOURIRT: This Kasbah is from 1750 A.D. and was built by the same families who built Ait Ben Haddou. It was like a maze inside the building with few levels, many small doors and rooms. Some of these rooms still have Moroccan tiles on their doors or windows or fireplace while some had nicely carved ceilings. Small windows of these rooms give breathtaking views of Atlas and the surroundings.

One of the rooms of Ouarzazate Kasbah in Morocco, decorated with tiles
One of the rooms of Ouarzazate Kasbah in Morocco, decorated with tiles

This Kasbah is located right opposite of Cinema Museum of Ouarzazate and is less than 10 minutes’ drive from center of Ouarzazate. Its 20 Dh to enter the Kasbah and guided tour is charged separately. It took us about 30-45 minutes to go around and explore the rooms of this place. The small doorways and lots of stairs doesn’t make this a stroller-friendly place, but we couldn’t find a place to park it; so my husband ended up carrying it with us.

View from one of the windows of Ouarzazate Kasbah, Morocco
View from one of the windows of Ouarzazate Kasbah, Morocco

3) MAIN SQUARE of OUARZAZATE: This is the center of Ouarzazate and in a way the “Djemaa El-Fna” of the city where all the fun things happen. City town hall is located in this square in one side along with couple of shops and many restaurants. This was our last stop before heading back to Marrakech on another 4 hours’ drive. We sat down in a restaurant for mint tea and some snacks. The square was empty that time, but our guide was saying this place comes to life after dark with more vendors and street entertainers.

The main square or center of Ouarzazate, Morocco
The main square or center of Ouarzazate, Morocco

A whole day in the desert of Giza, Memphis, and Saqqara

GIZA, MEMPHIS, & SAQQARA: Giza is THE site where most of the tourists (if not all) come to while visiting Cairo. This is the iconic image of Egypt and one of the most famous symbols of all ancient wonders. The pyramids and the sphinx in Giza, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, give a real glimpse to the early Egyptian civilization, their life-style, beliefs, and talents. Looking at something that old (from 2500 BC) literally gave me goose-bumps.

The desert in Giza Necropolis, Egypt
The desert in Giza Necropolis, Egypt

Memphis is more like “an open air museum” as our tour guide Haisam said. This was the first capital of unified Egypt during the Old Kingdom around 3000 BC and another UNESCO World Heritage Site along with the pyramid complex in Giza.

The open-air museum of Memphis - 1st capital of unified Egypt
The open-air museum of Memphis – 1st capital of unified Egypt

Saqqara is also a necropolis which houses the first and the oldest pyramid in Egypt. I think I would really remember the beauty of the desert of Saqqara for a long time. It was almost sunset; we were standing on a small hill and looking at other pyramids in far distance. The sight of sand with pyramids in the backdrop during that moment will stay with me as long as I live…this was a memorable day overall.

An ancient corridor to pass in Saqqara before reaching the Step pyramid
An ancient corridor to pass before reaching the Step pyramid in Saqqara

Please scroll down to “Places We’ve Visited” for detailed information on these three places.

TIME of TRAVEL: We flew to Cairo during our Christmas break of 2012. Although Giza is about 45 minutes of drive from Cairo downtown, it took us little more than an hour to reach there due to traffic conditions and some road blocks. November to March is the best time to explore Egypt, when the weather is fine and you can enjoy desert sun without going crazy from exhausting heat.

OUR HOTEL: We stayed in Cairo Moon Hotel in the heart of Cairo, only 10 minutes’ of walk from Cairo Museum and Tahrir square. Honestly speaking this was a below average hotel with tiny (for only 3 people) and scary elevators, big red ants walking all over the floor, too much noise late at night, and few other problems. But the owner of this hotel, Mohamed, is an exceptionally friendly and helpful gentleman. All the staffs here are same way too which overcomes all the other problems of this hotel. Mohamed organized few trip for us here and there including the trip to Giza.

We paid 45 USD for a private car with driver and 15 USD for a tour guide, Haisam (please click on my Tour Guide tab if you or someone you know needs a tour guide in Cairo). For a total 60 USD, I think, we got a great deal to tour around Giza, Memphis, and Saqqara. Fortunately, brother Haisam was an excellent guide who knew A LOT about Egypt from its ancient, recent-past, and modern era. He was very humble, gentle, nice, and finally, someone we could absolutely depend on for anything.

EATING & SHOPPING: We stopped at a local street-side restaurant for lunch that day. It was more like a quick pick-up shwarma in between Giza and Memphis. There is absolutely no place to eat or have lunch within the boundaries of the pyramids; at least I didn’t see any.

For souvenirs, we saw many individual vendors selling cheap items here and there in Giza and Saqqara. Memphis has more stores where you can get some small gifts and something for yourself. WARNING: do not buy any papyrus products from them as they are not real papyrus papers. Our guide Haisam took us to a big showroom of papyrus, Golden Eagle Papyrus on Sakkara Road. This is a government approved store, and therefore you know you are buying the real thing. It has hundreds of papyrus wall decors to choose from at various price ranges and with different themes. The guy who was showing us around actually took 10 minutes to show us how a piece of papyrus was made from its trees…thatwas absolutely fascinating and very educational for our little ones. Here is their phone number if you need it – +2037719585.

PLACES WE’VE VISITED: Our taxi left for Giza little before 9am and we reached the place where we were going to rent out camels from near the entrance to the pyramids around 10. Giza is the place where we spent most of the time – about 3:30 hours. Memphis is about half an hour drive from Giza and we spent, I think, about little more than an hour. Then our final destination of the day, Saqqara, was another half an hour drive and again, spent about an hour near the sunset time. Our guide, Haisam, kept us entertained with all the charming secrets of these pyramids and ancient Egyptians all day.

Pyramids of Giza and our ride in the desert of Egypt
Pyramids of Giza and our ride in the desert of Egypt

1) GREAT PYRAMIDS of GIZA & SPHINX: After arriving at Giza city, we first went to the place where we were going to rent our camels from; another option was to ride a horse (but who would…?). We took the longest ride which took us around the deserts, to the panoramic spot, to the pyramids, and then to the sphinx.

Here comes one of our rides to the pyramids in Giza
Here comes one of our rides to go to the pyramids in Giza

Pardon my ignorance, but all this time I thought there were total of 3 pyramids in Giza necropolis. But as we were approaching the “Panoramic spot” near the pyramids, Haisam explained that there are 3 main pyramids which are the burial sites for 3 pharaohs (Khufu, Khafre, and Menkaure) and 6 small ones (3 with the pyramid of Khufu and the other 3 with the pyramid of Menkaure) for their mothers, daughters, and wives. Panoramic spot is an up-hill site from where you can see all the 9 pyramids lined up. This place not only gave us magnificent view of the Great Pyramids, but from here we could also be fascinated by the wilderness of the desert. Watching men riding their horses fast, flying white sand in the air looked like Arabian Sultans chasing their enemies in Hollywood movies. I am not exaggerating, but it was a true beauty that I enjoyed from the back of my camel.

The Great Pyramids of Giza
The Great Pyramids of Giza

After the panoramic site, we were on the camels again and off to get up-close and personal with these pyramids. So, we touched the old limestone of these relic structures, took some pictures, and back on the camel headed towards the sphinx. You can actually go inside the burial chamber of these pyramids which we didn’t do. At any given day, at least two of the three big pyramids will have the burial chamber open to visitors. And you pay separately for these visits.

On the camel again and we headed towards the Sphinx. Sphinx of Giza, the biggest one in Egypt, is located in front of the middle pyramid, which was for Pharaoh Khafre. The Sphinx’s body is a combination of head of a man, representing the wisdom of human and the body of a lion, meaning the strength and power of a lion. This was our last stop before returning our camels to their owners and start driving towards Memphis.

Sphinx of Giza, the biggest sphinx in Egypt
Sphinx of Giza, the biggest sphinx in Egypt

One thing I must say here is that, if you haven’t ridden a camel before, DO IT in Giza…you won’t regret it. I cannot describe the royal feeling of looking over the sand and to the astonishing pyramids from a camel-back as it slowly makes it trails into the heart of the desert…nothing beats that. It was a bit scary when the camel got up or sat down with me on its back…I felt like screaming every time. Oh, and not to mention the pain I had in my legs the next day from that ride. The trick of riding a camel is that you have to relax and just let your body move back and forth with the movement of the camel, which took some time for me to get used to. I felt like I was going to fall from that height and break a leg if I let my body loose.

Here are some necessary information/precautions when visiting Giza. First of all, if you are thinking about riding camel/horse in the desert, see if your hotel/tour guide can arrange that for you before arriving in Giza. You can always contact and take our guide Haisam, if he is available (please click on my Tour Guides tab). Second, never, ever rent camels once you are already inside the perimeter of the pyramid complex. Lots of horrible stories have happened where they not only charge you sky amount of money, but also takes your money first for 1 hour and won’t give you the camel for more than 10 minutes. We paid 400 LE for 2 camels with 2 helpers for about 2 and half hours and a free horse for brother Haisam, our guide. Also keep in mind that, the helpers expect some tips after you are done with the trip…they work really hard walking on foot on the desert for a long time under the sun, be a little generous. The entrance fee to enter the main gate to Giza pyramids is 60 LE for adults and 30 LE for kids. If you want to go inside one of the 3 pyramids its 100 LE for adults and 60 LE for kids. Usually the biggest pyramid, “Pyramid of Khufu” is open every day for the visitors in addition to another smaller one. Another thing is – don’t wear any fancy clothes on the day you are going to Giza. You are going to desert, you will be covered in dusts by the time you are done seeing these pyramids and other sites. Wear something very comfortable, a hat, and take few water-bottles with you, especially if you are traveling in summer. Finally, don’t try to climb the pyramids…its forbidden and extremely dangerous.

A random poser in Giza, who later asked for money since he posed for my camera and he was the one who kept insisting that I take picture of him and his camel
A random poser in Giza, who later asked for money since he posed for my camera and he was the one who kept insisting that I take picture of him and his camel

2) MEMPHIS OPEN-AIR MUSEUM: This is rather a small open area to explore compared to Giza’s vast desert and the pyramids. There is an enclosed area where an enormous limestone statue of Egypt’s most important king Pharaoh Ramsey II from New Kingdom rests. Research has indicated that most likely it was Pharaoh King Remses II who chased Moses out of Egypt and drowned in Red Sea. The statue is about 10 meters long and laying on its back. Outside, there are many ruins along with couple other smaller sculptures of Pharaoh Ramsey II. The alabaster sphinx, called Sphinx of Memphis, in the middle of the yard is in its original spot from 1200 BC.

A limestone statue of Pharaoh Remses II from New Kingdom in Memphis
A limestone statue of Pharaoh Remses II from New Kingdom in Memphis, researchers believe that he is the Pharaoh King who chased Moses out of Egypt and drowned in Red Sea

Entry fee here is 30 LE for adults and 20 LE for children. There are few souvenir shops lined up in one side of this open air museum.

An alabaster sphinx in the open air museum of Memphis, known as Sphinx of Memphis - also from the New Kingdom
An alabaster sphinx in the open air museum of Memphis, known as Sphinx of Memphis – also from the New Kingdom

3) SAQQARA NECROPOLIS: As I have mentioned above, Saqqara Necropolis is a vast burial ground which has the first and the oldest pyramid in Egypt. It features the famous Step pyramid of King Zoser or Djoser from the 27th century BC. There is a corridor that you have to pass to come to the Step pyramid complex. I can’t remember what Haisam said, but the passageway is also an ancient stable-like architecture with many stone pillars and many rooms. After climbing the stairs opposite of the pyramid, we came up to a small hill, from where we saw another two famous pyramids in the far distance of Dahshur, called Bent pyramid and Red pyramid. Bent pyramid was built under Old Kingdom from around 2600 BC by the son of Djoser. This is an example of a transitional form of pyramid between Step pyramid and regular smooth pyramids. As the Bent pyramid did not come out the way expected it was never used. Instead the Red pyramid was built next to it with correct pyramidal angles and that is the burial site of the king. It was almost dusk and looking at those pyramids from afar on the dusty desert was magical.

Step pyramid of Saqqara Necropolis - the first and oldest pyramid in Egypt
Step pyramid of Saqqara Necropolis – the first and oldest pyramid in Egypt

Entrance fee to Saqqara pyramid is 60 LE for adult and 30 LE for children. This is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site along with the pyramids in Dahshur.

Bent pyramid (back on the left) of Dahshur and Red pyramid (on the right) in far distance, seen from Saqqara
Bent pyramid (back on the left) of Dahshur and Red pyramid (on the right) in far distance, seen from Saqqara

in Marrakech, Morocco

So, we are in Marrakech right now. We took a day trip to the Atlas mountain range on our 3rd day here. The day trip was actually to see some Berbere villages and their Kasbahs (their traditional houses). Our main spot was Ait Ben Haddou and then to Ouarzazate, about little more than 200 km drive from Marrakech. It was an exhausting day but the ending beautify of driving thru the Atlast mountains and desert (we were very close to Sahara) was fantastic. Here is a picture of the Atlas mountains from an  overview spot…eNjoY

 

Layers of Atlas Mountains near Marrakech, Morocco
Layers of Atlas Mountains near Marrakech, Morocco

 

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Salam from Cairo

Its been about few days now since we flew to Cairo and it’s already time for us to head back to Belgium tomorrow. I am overwhelmed with all the ancient and modern history that I’ve gathered on Egypt during our stay here. It’s a fascinating country full of extraordinary people. We did everything we wanted to do here including Nile River cruise dinner with belly dance, and sufi dance, riding on camels to go around the pyramids in Giza, great shopping, had some awesome traditional Egyptian dishes, and met some fantastic helpful people… this trip couldn’t have been any better than this.

Enjoy the following picture from the pyramids of Giza. This pretty camel was our ride there…but riding it is another different story ;), if you rode a camel before you know what I mean…

Pyramids of Giza and our ride in the desert of Egypt
Pyramids of Giza and our ride in the desert of Egypt